BALABAC ISLANDS: DIY Travel Guide, Budget + Itinerary To Palawan’s Last Frontier

My visit in Balabac Islands was long overdue. I had my eyes on this place since 2014 but several roadblocks made it impossible for me to go for a visit not until 5 years later. And even after finally realizing that dream of exploring this enchanting place, my time there was far from perfect. There were drizzles here and there and the sun refused to shine almost throughout our entire stay. The seas were too menacing that everytime we tried to set sail, they become wild. It scared the heck out of me, although I still think they’re nothing compared to those of Babuyan [Read: BABUYAN ISLANDS: A First-Timer’s Budget Travel Guide + Itinerary To The Hidden Jewels Of The Extreme North ]. Balabac Islands may have not been at its best behavior during our visit but we certainly had some of the best moments.

Our first day in Palawan was simply spent getting to Rio Tuba and scouring for places to spend the night in so the touring didn’t start until the next day. We arrived in Puerto Princesa at 10AM but the 6-hour drive to Rio Tuba got us there at 8PM which is pretty late (considering Rio Tuba’s standard) that the nicest lodges and inns were already fully booked or worse closed. Left with no other choice, we settled in a rundown motel near the bus station. At 6AM the following morning amidst heavy rainfall, we headed down to the port to catch our boat going to Balabac Island. My friend whom I was traveling with at the time took care of all the planning that I simply went with the flow and uttered not a single complaint even when I was at the point of being clueless. Lol. He actually didn’t tell me anything other than the tour be setting us back P3000/person/day and that he’s already in contact with a local tour coordinator who will be meeting us in Bancalaan Island.

The rain subsided at 8AM and we were then finally given a go to set sail. After 2 hours, we reached Bancalaan Island, which was marvelous even under the gloomy skies, that I started to believe in having an amazing time in Balabac. Well, the panic didn’t start until we realized we didn’t have mobile signal on both of our phones and the locals whom we were supposed to meet were nowhere in sight. The passenger boat that took us there was long gone and we were the only people at the port that no matter how mesmerizing were the views, the air began to give me chills everytime it caressed my skin. Not long after, I felt a dire need to use the loo but couldn’t find one. As I was looking around, I saw a house from a distance. I sped towards it only to get bummed as it was closed and empty. I circled the house while grabbing my crotch to prevent me from peeing myself. Just when I was about to go into the woods to relieve myself, I saw the owner of the house and without second thoughts, I asked if I could use the restroom and she agreed.

Emerging from the house after that much needed trip to the restroom, I looked for my travel bud and found him in the company of some local habal-habal drivers. I walked towards them and heard them talking about our local tour coordinator. Every one of them seemed to know him and assured us of his credibility, which somehow made us feel better. The waiting went on for another 30 minutes under the pouring skies. When the rain had stopped along with the wind, the seas calmed down. Not long after, a tiny speedboat emerged from a distance and in no time was already ashore. Two men (maybe in their 20s) disembarked and headed our way. Turns out, they were exactly whom we were waiting for.

After a brief introduction, we started with island hopping. I was kinda not expecting the vessel of choice for this voyage, a tiny speedboat and not the usually average sized outrigger boat but i saved the questioning for later. We reached our first island, Patawan, after 30 minutes. At first glance, it was just another island with white sand beach but I came to love it more after we disembarked. The island was just small and you can actually circle its entirety in a matter of 20 minutes. What I love about it is that it’s stunning even under the drizzles. It looked immaculate as it was so clean. Zero trash if my memory serves me well. We settled there for more than an hour, had lunch, snapped some photos and went for a quick dip. After that, we went to our next island, Tangkahan. This one, I didn’t find special. Maybe because it was filthy with wooden debris and some trash but it has the same white sugary sands and turquoise water which would have taken my breath away had the situation been different.

The longest and most nerve wracking part of this day’s tour was going to Candaraman Island, our home for the next three days. Not only did the rain was unforgiving but the waves were monstrous. Salt water splashed our faces from every direction. The speedboat struggled with every current. I, trying to hold it in to prevent me from throwing up. Us, shivering from the cold as we tried to get through the voyage and reach our next island. The rollercoaster ride continued for another hour that even when Candaraman Island was already in sight, time seemed to take forever. At long last after two butt-numbing hours, we disembarked and felt Candaraman Island’s silky smooth sands against the soles of our feet.

The next day, we went for a dip first thing in the morning to get my energy up. I had trouble sleeping through the night as the room we were in was unbelievably warm and outside was infested with mosquitoes which seemed to be immuned of off lotion. At 7AM, they called us for coffee and breakfast and an hour later, we went to start with the island hopping. Our first island was Canabungan. The island has white sand beaches lined with pine-like trees. Stood along the beach were native huts. I wasn’t particularly attracted to this island as it was filled with trash like wine/liquor bottles, plastic wrappers and even old appliances. I thought, someone should at least keep these islands clean as the amount of money people spend just to see them is no joke. At least make them worth every penny.

Our next stop was Mansalangan Sandbar but we came at the wrong time since the sandbar is already submerged and the water was already knee deep. We still disembarked and spent half an hour dipping and taking some photos. Our guides agreed that we will go back and stop by the sandbar during low tide. We then proceed to our third island, Punta Sebaring (technically, it’s a beach within Bugsuk Island). Thirty minutes later, we were ashore and were careful not to get stung by stingrays as we struggled to walk to the main beach. Punta Sebaring probably has the softest, finest and whitest sands among the beaches I‘ve visited that taking a step was such a task with our legs sinking deep to the knee every damn time. I would have started to believe that paying P3000/day for our tour was worth it had I not seen kilometer stretch of beach filled with so much garbage. I mean Punta Sebaring is not a doubt precious and a jewel in itself but the filth just stole away its charm.

Despite one disappointment after another, we stayed positive and still hoped, we will find something that will make us believe Balabac is worth it. I mean, the monsoon rain shouldn’t give them an excuse to neglect the islands and leave trash scattered on their shores. Like, how come Patawan Island was so immaculately clean while the others didn’t even come close? That, I would always wonder. Our third day was sort of a make or break which made me anxious and excited at the same time. I worried about Balabac not living up to its reputation but I can’t help but look forward to whatever it still has to offer.

We started with island hopping early as we want to visit the farthest island that promises a pink sand beach. Our first stop was the Candaraman Sandbar and this, I would say, was one of the highlights of this entire Balabac tour. We didn’t get to see the sandbar and its glory during low tide but even with the water being waist deep, I was still swooned over. Imagine a vast pool that stretched as far as my eyes can see with its clear blue waters underneath filled with a thousand sea stars lying in a bed of fine white sands. That is something you don’t get to experience everyday and it’s priceless.

Trying to get our minds off Candaraman Sandbar, we head out to see Onuk Island. The weather has gotten better each day and this particular day was practically sunny. The voyage to Onuk Island lasted almost two hours, that by the time we arrived there, it was almost time for lunch. From afar, Onuk Island didn’t seem any special (considering the entrance fee of P1500/person) but as we neared, I was mesmerized by the turquoise water that surround it which stretched until the horizon. The only thing that upset me was the extremely large area of dead corals. I don’t know what contributed to their demise but I totally found it disturbing.

The stormy clouds quickly gathered while we were having lunch in Onuk Island. Good thing, we were already done with our photo sesh and all that was left was exploring and we certainly got no problems doing it in the rain. The rain came and was relentless but we took comfort in it while dipping in the warm waters of Onuk Island. Not long after, it stopped. We then went to snorkel in the deeper parts and were amazed to find some healthy corals teeming with fishes of various species and several giant clams! The last time I saw giant clams naturally abundant in an island was in Pass Island in Coron (that place and everything else on that tour are one for the books). A few minutes before the clock hit the hour of three in the afternoon, our local guides told us we should get going or we risk having a hard time sailing back to the main Balabac Island. We were no longer visiting the Pink Island (which was such a bum) as it was going to take another hour to get there and the main Balabac Island is still three hours away.

Our 4th day was pretty much uneventful. We initially planned to see some waterfalls and the lighthouse but gave it up over hours of sleeping and waking up only to eat (and honestly, the tour was quite expensive). When we felt like it, we would go walking along the main street of the town, observing the locals who seemed more Malaysian than Filipinos from the food they eat to the commodities they consume. We would also frequent the port and scare ourselves of crocs lurking in those murky waters. And in between banter, I would silently nettle over how could this place be so damn filthy!

And before I forget, might I mention that we met a new friend, Rham, who is such a softy to cats and kids. While I was all about saving every penny I have left, he just had no problem spending a thousand bucks to buy a local kid a pair of sandals. Don’t get me wrong, I’m all for charity but it totally depends on the situation. I mean, we were actually down to the last of our pocket money. Still, kudos to his good heart which is why I am dedicating this paragraph to him. Thank you for putting up with me and my travel buddy and for being so patient throughout those five days. You’ll be every girl’s dream Instagram boyfriend. Lol.

• The Balabac Islands is no doubt beautiful and charming. Each of its islands has something special to offer. However, I think it pales in comparison to Coron and El Nido. Guess, its most redeeming quality and the only factor that made it better than the other two is that it’s not yet crowded.
• Is Balabac Islands worth the price? I would say, I wouldn’t spend anything more than P1500/day for a tour which is  inclusive of food, accommodation and entrance fees. I just don’t think, seeing three islands in a day would warrant a higher price especially if not all of them would take my breath away.
• Is Balabac Islands good for solo travelers? If you have no qualms paying P10000/day for a tour because you would most likely not find anyone to share the tour with, then yes. But if you are on a budget, then better go here with a group. Ideal is at least 5 people. 
• Is Balabac Islands safe? Balabac Islands, in general, is peaceful. People are kind, friendly, accommodating and are always ready to help. As a precaution, try to blend in. Avoid drawing attention to yourself. Always be with a local guide when exploring the area. Notify authority of your whereabouts. Lastly, don’t stay out late. And if you are worried about the crocs, just stay away from the waters in the main Balabac town where they can be lurking around waiting for its prey.
• What is my biggest turn off about Balabac Islands? It’s filthy. It’s probably the filthiest part of Palawan in my opinion. I mean, for a place being advertised as a paradise, they could at least keep the islands clean. The main Balabac Island is filled with trash. The seawater at the port is murky. I get that locals live in stilt houses on the shores but it is hardly an excuse. Some travelers would say that if you wanna appreciate Balabac, skip the main island and just see the islands meant for touring but for me, it just makes no sense. A place can be the most beautiful in the eye but I will never patronize anything that doesn’t aim for sustainability and care for the environment.
• What do I think should be improved? I think it’s time for the local tourism department to take over the touring operations and establish a centralized system that would be beneficial for all the parties involved. This would make visiting Balabac easier and more affordable for solo travelers or those in smaller groups as they can just be pooled together to share the total cost of the tour. In addition to that, the local tourism department should also set specific guidelines that will aim to preserve the environment and counter the impact of tourism in the area.
• Is Balabac worth it? With all things considered e.g. price, travel time, comfort etc, I’d say I’ve seen better places. I mean it’s some place I’ve been to once but not some place I would love to go back to.
• Would I still recommend visiting Balabac? Of course! Balabac may have disappointed me but I would still recommend people to see it. These are just my opinion. Yours might be different.

Fly to Puerto Princesa via PAL or CebuPac. From the airport, ride a tric to the van terminal going to Rio Tuba. Take the van to Rio Tuba. From there, ride the passenger boat going to Balabac Island. This route is ideal for travelers without tour reservations yet and are planning to arrange their tours with the locals once they get there. Alternatively from Puerto Princesa, ride a van going to Buliluyan Port. There you can meet with your tour organizer and get started with island hopping.

Note:  There is only one boat trip daily from Rio Tuba to Balabac Islands which departs at 8AM. Similarly, only one boat travels to Rio Tuba from Balabac daily at 5AM.

• The best time to visit Balabac is from March to November. December to February tends to be the months when Amihan Season is at its strongest which means totally unsafe and rough seas in Balabac Islands.
• If you would visit Balabac, I would suggest allocating a week. This should give you enough time to explore the islands since merely traveling to the jumpoff points, Rio Tuba or Buliluyan, would consume a day. This should also cover some days that you will not be able to go on tour during rains or unfriendly seas.
• When booking your flights to Puerto Princesa, get the 1AM or 2AM schedule if available. This should get you to Puerto Princesa before 4AM and to Rio Tuba or Buliluyan at 8AM, allowing you to start with the touring right away with not a day wasted in your itinerary. You can arrange your van transfer with Hajija – (0909) 724 0847 at an affordable price.
• Rio Tuba and Balabac Islands are predominantly Muslim communities.  Although there’s a good number of Christians in the mix, expect that most eateries don’t offer pork dishes.
• Arrange your tour with a local coordinator ahead of time to know how much exactly will you be spending since the price to visit Balabac can be quite steep. If you are traveling solo, ask your local coordinator if you can be joined with other groups. If not, try to look for companions or join organized tours on Facebook.
• Make sure to confirm the inclusions of the tour quoted amount. Some tours don’t include the accommodation, food and entrance fees. Note that entrance fee to Onuk Island is always not included and would be paid by you should you opt to go there.
• The boat being used for the tour is a speedboat which could fit 7 tour participants and 2 tour guides. I was told this is the more ideal vessel since it can navigate through huge waves unlike outrigger boats. 
• During touring proper, your home island will either be Candaraman or Punta Sebaring. The possibility of your tour coordinator taking you back to the town island to spend the night is slim as it may consume too much time. Expect little comfort since your bedroom would either be a tent or a nice little hut. There would be plenty of fresh running water though.
• Bring plenty of mosquito repellent (off lotion). Mosquitos in Balabac are a total bother. Bring caladryl and terramycin in case the repellent fail to do its job. 
• There’s hardly a mobile signal in Balabac Islands for all networks. Android phones get better reception than iPhones. 
• After the island hopping tour, if your way back is Rio Tuba, you should reserve your boat ticket a day before your departure. The ticketing booth is at the port and is open from 1PM to 5PM only. 

In the event that you arrive in Puerto Princesa a bit late to travel to Rio Tuba and you need a place to stay, you might wanna consider these places.

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I hope you find my Balabac story helpful. I know I haven’t been gentle with my words but these are merely my thoughts and they are meant to inform and not deter anyone from visiting Balabac. I’d say give it a go, have fun and make the most of it.  Until next time. Ciao