BUSCALAN: 3-Day Itinerary, Budget + Travel Guide To Visit Apo Whang Od

Going to Buscalan Village is easier now than in the previous years although the journey still takes a painstaking 15-18 hours from Manila. The popular route is via Tabuk but I chose the route I’m more familiar with which is via Bontoc. I made my way to Banaue first via Coda Lines. I haven’t really seen much of Banaue during my first visit to Ifugao because I opted for the magnificence of Batad so I thought of giving it at least a few hours instead of riding the bus all the way to Bontoc. I headed to one of the town’s viewing areas via a tricycle and was blessed to witness a golden sunrise over the vast terraces of rice paddies. The warmth of the sun felt so good against my skin as it chased the chill of the morning breeze away.

After kick-starting my tour perfectly with a view of the famed Banaue Rice Terraces and a cup of coffee in my hand, I headed to see Bontoc. It was 8 AM when I left in a van along with the other passengers. I would have loved to doze off a bit but the view along the way was just otherworldly. The Cordillera mountains have always been a magnificent sight. It looked formidable and filled with the unknown but something in me wants to fully comprehend its mystery. Almost two hours into the journey and the marvelous terraces of Bay-yo came into view. Soon after, we reached Bontoc.

There were buses ready to depart for Tabuk that will pass by the diversion road going to Buscalan but I settled for the jeepney that will take me directly to the village instead. It was to depart at 2:30 PM. A little bit late but I didn’t have any worries since I will be with the company of Buscalan villagers. I took the time I had to explore Bontoc from the town’s museum to the nearby viewing areas. I also had a sumptuous lunch and coffee at Cable Cafe and Restaurant. When it was about time to go, I simply walked my way back to the jeepney terminal.

I sat among the eager villagers inside the jeep and looked at them with delight as we waited to depart. I have always admired the features of the Cordillera people. Chinky eyes, high-bridged nose, red cheeks over perfectly tanned skin, and shiny jet black hair. What could have been more beautiful? It was also amusing to see they were not so far behind with technology. Some of the young ones even have smartphones with them but I wondered what they used it for since their village has a weak coverage even for simple texts and calls which is why it was hard for me to get a hold of a local guide or a host for my visit. I just set the thought aside and continued to observe.

We finally got moving towards Buscalan at 2:45 PM. I fell asleep during the first 30 minutes of the ride out of exhaustion. I woke up to the sun shining brightly at my face. Adjusting to the light, my eyes caught a glimpse of a scenic view of the valleys below. The most captivating was the village of Sadanga. It looked so surreal, like an Elven paradise covered in trees surrounded by vast plains of greens. While I was in the midst of my reverie, a woman approached me. She asked whether I already have a guide and a homestay. I told her I didn’t and she gladly offered her home and services which I didn’t hesitate to accept. Suddenly, I was in the middle of a conversation, the villagers slowly warmed up to me.

We stopped by a market to allow the villagers to do last-minute shopping. The ride then went on until we reached another village near the diversion road to Buscalan. We waited for about 15 minutes before continuing the journey. Going to Buscalan was an uphill ride along a narrow concrete road. It has lots of blind curves and dangerous turns but the jeep didn’t seem to have any difficulty navigating through. We reached the jump-off to Buscalan Village at 5 PM. The tourism office was already closed but local guides still awaited for visitors to arrive. My host said she will go ahead to prepare dinner for me and left me in the care of her friend.

From the jump-off point, going to the village requires a 1-hr trek. Trekking would start off with a descent that will stretch to about 500 meters. The descent is not very steep and barely straightforward. It will be a little difficult and slippery during rains but it should be manageable even for newbies. We quickly covered the descent and reached the base just after 10 minutes. We then passed by a bridge and traced the path leading to where the ascent to the village would start. I heard a gushing of the waterfall nearby. It was so soothing. Slowly, we ascended the concrete stairs with my guide leading the way.

The ascent was arduous for me that I lost my balance for a moment and was gasping for air 10 minutes into it. I was carrying my 30L backpack. My throat was dry and I was dead thirsty but my water bottle was empty. My guide quickly refilled it with spring water. I kind of hesitated because I have a sensitive stomach. I worried about upsetting my tummy but I was more concerned about me passing out so I took a sip just enough to quench my thirst. When I recovered, we continued the trek up the concrete stairs until we reached the village. We stopped by at the registration point to rest a bit. There, I also filled out my info on a form and paid the fees. We continued the trek to my homestay after and reached it just before sunset.

The night was perfectly quiet. I had a cool, refreshing bath then a filling dinner before heading to bed. I only paid P300/night for my homestay which also includes unlimited coffee and rice. Quite a bargain, huh. I had a clean and spacious room. My foam bed was on the floor but it had clean sheets, three pillows, and a warm comforter. I stayed out on the terrace for a bit to gaze at the starlit skies. I had a whole tumbler of freshly brewed Kalinga coffee made for me by my host. In just a few hours of my stay, I fell deeply in love with Buscalan that it wasn’t really hard to decide to stay for one more night. I didn’t wanna leave in a hurry and as much as I can, I wanted to make the most out of my time in the village.

The following day, I had boiled eggs, corned beef, and rice for breakfast. They went perfectly without saying with my Kalinga coffee. At exactly 9 PM, my guide picked me up and we went to see Apo Whang Od. We arrived at her empty house which was made of concrete with a design typical to most Filipinos. I always thought they still live in their native huts (baluy) but sadly, just like in Batad, they no longer do. More than adapting to the demands of the modern world, sustainability was the major consideration since cogon grass and the other materials used to build the native huts have been scarce in the recent years. Although, it made me glad to see that most of the houses in the village retained the old design.

It felt nerve-wracking just to sit and wait for Apo Whang Od to show up. I didn’t know where the nerve was coming from. Could it be from finally meeting the living legend or from getting a batok tattoo for the first time. I couldn’t seem to put my hands on it but all I knew was when she finally showed up, I was awestruck. Her demeanor reminded me somehow of my old and unmarried female dean in college. Cold and somehow grumpy. She didn’t seem so amused of the handful of people waiting for her. We observed her in silence as she prepared her stuff. She didn’t say a word and that scared me even more. When she finally gestured that she was ready to start tattooing, my heart jumped to my throat and I almost didn’t budge from where I stood.

I was the first to get tattooed by Apo Whang Od that day. I first handed her my gift, a loaf of bread that she accepted gracefully. She then went to ask where I wanna put the tattoo. I handed her my right arm and pointed at my forearm just an inch away from my wrist. She quickly did a stencil of her signature, a 3-dot tattoo. She doesn’t work on complicated designs anymore and has left the task to the young women of the village. She quickly started working on my tattoo. I noticed a quick shift in the atmosphere. Apo Whang Od suddenly became cheerful. She spoke with enthusiasm with the other villagers around and was even laughing heartily. I didn’t understand what they were saying but seeing how she was just happy made me relax a bit. She finished working on my tattoo in an instant and we posed for a photo together. I stayed a bit to admire her some more. When the crowd became overwhelming, I left and went back to my homestay.

An hour after I got a tattoo from Apo Whang Od, I had another tattoo from a young girl who was my host’s daughter. I chose the fern to put on my forearm just beside the first batok tattoo I got earlier. The process with this other tattoo didn’t go smoothly. It took longer than expected and I bled so much that I was too sore after. I slept for the rest of the day and only went to explore the village an hour before sunset. After a quick shower and a delicious dinner, I spent several hours staring at the skies filled with a million stars. The wind was cold and the night was quiet. The silence in the mountains has always been the reason I’m so drawn to places like Batad and Sagada. My only hope is for these places not to lose their culture and tradition in this ever changing world. I sighed while I took a sip on my cup of coffee. I was to leave another magical place come the light of the morning but a promise of seeing it another time is yet again sealed in my heart.

From Manila – In Cubao, ride a Coda Lines bus going to Bontoc (10Hrs ; P725/way). From Bontoc, ride a jeepney going to Buscalan Village jump-off (2Hrs ; P100). Alternatively from Bontoc, you can ride a jeep or a bus bound for Tabuk and alight in Bugnay Village in Tinglayan (1.5Hrs ; P70). From there, you will need to ride a motorcycle to Buscalan Village jump-off. Once you’re at the jump-off, you will need to hike for 30 minutes to 1 hour to reach the village.

Another option from Manila is to ride a Victory Liner bus in Kamias going to Tabuk (10Hrs ; P800/way). Alight in St. Williams Cathedral in Tabuk City. From there, ride a jeep or a bus going to Bontoc and alight in Brgy. Bugnay in Tinglayan (2Hrs ; P200). You will need to ride a motorcycle (habal-habal) to reach Buscalan Village jump-off.

From Baguio – Ride a bus from Dangwa Terminal going to Bontoc (8Hrs ; P250). Trips start at 2 AM. From Bontoc, ride a jeepney going to Buscalan Village jump-off (2Hrs ; P100). Alternatively from Bontoc, you can ride a jeep or a bus bound for Tabuk and alight in Bugnay Village in Tinglayan (1.5Hrs ; P70). From there, you will need to ride a motorcycle to Buscalan Village jump-off. Once you’re at the jump-off, you will need to hike for 30 minutes to 1 hour to reach the village.

• If your way is via Bontoc, note that the jeep which goes directly to Buscalan Village only has one trip daily and it departs at 2 PM. The terminal is just beside the Mountain Province State Polytechnic College. The same jeep will take you back to Bontoc from Buscalan and it departs once daily at 9 AM.
• If you missed the jeep to Buscalan Village or if you are in a hurry then you can simply ride the jeep or bus from Bontoc going to Tabuk and alight in Bugnay near the diversion road to Buscalan Village. Trips are available at a 30-minute to an hour interval from 7 AM to 4 PM daily.
• Expect a scenic ride full of twists and turns. You will be traveling along the Cordillera mountains. The roads are kind of dangerous so as an additional precaution, jeeps and buses only run at moderate and controlled speeds.
• Guides are required in order to enter and explore Buscalan Village. They are also necessary for getting an appointment with Apo Whang Od. Reservation is not necessary but might be an advantage if you will go there during weekends and peak seasons. Guides await for visitors at the jump-off. Guide fee is P1000/day/5People.
• There are no hotels/inns in Buscalan Village but the villagers offer their home for P300/head/night which is inclusive of bed, bath, and unlimited rice and coffee.
• The villagers can understand and speak English but not fluently. Tagalog is also widely spoken.
• Cellular network coverage is weak to zero in Buscalan Village. Globe has better coverage than other networks and can still send texts and make calls using a basic phone.
• Your host can also cook food for you for an additional fee. If you are on a budget, you can bring with you canned goods or buy them from some stores in the village.
• Avoid going to Buscalan Village during weekends as it is packed with tourists and you might find it difficult to get a tattoo from Apo Whang Od.
• Bring enough cash. There is no ATM in the village. The nearest ATMs are in Bontoc and Tabuk City.
• 3 days and 2 nights is recommended to fully experience Buscalan Village but if you’re in a hurry and is only after the tattoo or seeing Apo Whang Od then 2 days and 1 night should do it for you.