SUGBA LAGOON: Guide To Siargao’s Most Stunning Jewel

Sugba Lagoon is like a page stripped out of a fairytale. Peaceful. Pristine. Surreal. It is reminiscent of an Elven paradise where I imagine them as they merry and feast for eternity. It looks like that perfect romantic spot where love blossoms and grows. I can easily imagine pixies flying around while showering their magical dust all over. Paddling over the calm water of the lagoon is like rowing a boat in a mystical river surrounded by mythical creatures. Sugba Lagoon is my kind of haven. A secret place I’ll never tell anyone. Its beauty would make you believe that unicorns are real and that dragons did exist. It’s just so enchanting and beautiful that words will never be able to describe its otherworldly beauty but they can only try. I guess you’ll really just have to see it to know what I mean.

OUR SUGBA LAGOON STORY

Since we failed to club a visit to Sugba Lagoon on our first day in Siargao, we hoped really bad to see it on our second day. The weather has not gone any better and we were greeted by gloomy skies and a couple of windy showers upon opening the door of our dainty hostel room. The morning breeze was cold as ice and it didn’t help set our mood for another day filled with adventure.

While waiting for Kuya Romeo (the motorcycle driver we hired on our first day), we took the time to order breakfast. They said Sugba Lagoon won’t be open until 10AM so we lingered a little longer in bed and didn’t get up until it was 8AM. Munching on toast, I thought we still had plenty of time for the weather to get better. While we toured on our own during our first day, our trip to Sugba Lagoon was shared with a mother and son tandem from QC who arrived in Siargao the night before.

The drizzle stopped but the sun was nowhere in sight. It was still the same gloomy morning that seemed more like 6 than 9AM. We figured it was the perfect time to head out so off we rode our motorcycles and journeyed the roads to Del Carmen. We dropped by Dapa for a moment to buy ourselves some fresh seafood but we were advised that we better do it in Del Carmen instead so off we continued the ride.

The ride was butt-numbing as expected passing over a concrete road although the drive was easy and scenic. We passed by the airport which made me understand why going to the main tourist strip in General Luna would cost P150-P200. It reminded me of the journey I took in Coron in order to get to the main town although I think the airport in Siargao is relatively nearer. (Note: We took the Manila-Butuan flight since it was a lot cheaper.)

We reached Del Carmen at exactly 10AM and immediately hunted for seafood. At first, we were introduced to the owner of a local eatery who offered us a kilo of crabs for P500. We thought the price was over the top so we opted to shop at the local market instead. We settled for a giant squid and a freshly caught yellowfin tuna. We decided to get it cooked in Sugba Lagoon but had no idea what we wanna do with it so we didn’t bother to shop for other ingredients except for rice and some spices.

After securing everything we might need, off we went to the Tourism Office of Del Carmen to register. The registration was quick and easy and in no time we found ourselves journeying through the mangrove sanctuary which was said to be the safest route to Sugba Lagoon. The mangrove area in Del Carmen was astonishingly vast and rich. We saw a flock of birds feeding in the swamp. That alone was evidence of how diverse are the lives taking shelter within the sanctuary. It was such a heart-warming scenery I thought.

The sun finally found its way out of those stubborn stratus clouds just as we turned to enter the sea. I also noticed that the water suddenly changed color from the previous dark grey to a clear emerald. I was surprised to see an isolated stilt house village along the way. Even more surprised to see that one of the houses offers accommodation services. It looked like a world of its own. A town cast away from the rest of Siargao.

Our boat continued to maneuver towards Sugba Lagoon. The scenery became more and more enchanting as we inched closer to this mysterious lagoon. And upon entering its very door, being welcomed by that lone structure built in the middle of the sea of clear emeralds, I knew it didn’t matter anymore how much I paid for it or the painstaking journey I had to endure. Right there and then, I knew oh so well, it was worth it.

As soon as our boat docked, I could feel the cold breeze engulfing my entire body. That freshness, that scent that only nature emits, that was so purifying. Rejuvenating. The place was so quiet but not in an eerily way. It spoke of peace and calmness and my soul loved it. And my heart couldn’t contain the happiness when the sun finally shed its light over the lagoon making its water glisten like a thousand diamonds.

We quickly settled our stuff then carefully considered whether to cliff jump or paddle board. I’m a scaredy little pussycat as fuck but at that time I was feeling a bit braver not wanting to miss on something I might not have another chance to experience. So off we went cliff jumping. At first, fear kicked in but as soon as I summoned the courage to finally jump and take the plunge, everything else didn’t matter as I felt blood rushed through my veins. It was such a liberating feeling and it made me hope to conquer my bigger fears.

I really loved how we had Sugba Lagoon to ourselves for several hours before other visitors came. I had already taken in every bit of goodness this treasure has to offer. I was just sad there was nothing much to see beneath the water’s surface. I would have loved to see a coral garden and a lively underwater environment. Or maybe I was looking at the wrong place, I don’t know. Perhaps the water was just too blurry even with goggles on.

We decided to head out when it was a little past 3PM to see Kawhagan Island. We were told it is a good place to view the sunset and is another stunning island we shouldn’t miss. We still have plenty of time and I definitely wouldn’t want to miss anything. I was also intrigued to see this isle since I haven’t heard anyone mention it before when they speak of Siargao.

We reached Kawhagan Island twenty minutes after leaving Sugba Lagoon. Seeing that long strip of sandbar jutting to the sea from the main isle which is dotted with several palm trees, I know right then that it’s my kind of island. As soon as the boat docked, we jumped off the boat to feel that patch of white sand against my feet. It was nothing smooth but its sugary touch felt good against my soles. We snapped some photos and bathed in its turquoise water while we waited for the sunset. And upon seeing that dramatic collision of colors in the sky, all I could think about was that this day couldn’t have been more perfect.

TRAVEL TIPS TO SUGBA LAGOON

• Prepare yourself for a long drive just to get to the Tourism Office/registration site for Sugba Lagoon. The total travel time is about an hour and thirty minutes from General Luna.
• Food and plastic bottled water are no longer allowed in Sugba Lagoon. Visitors are asked to leave them before boarding the boat.
• Every group is given 3 hours to stay in Sugba Lagoon to avoid overcrowding. It’s highly recommended to explore the other nearby islands such as Kawhagan and Pamomoan or club it with Magpupungko Tidal Pools and other destinations to cover more within a day.
• The fees to explore Sugba Lagoon have gone up by at least P400. It is recommended to visit this spot with a group. However, you don’t have to worry if you’re alone since the Tourism Office can help you find other visitors that you can share the cost with.
• You can now book your Siargao tours with Klook. This is a good option if you don’t have the luxury to plan the trip yourself.
• Sugba Lagoon is now part of the Land Tour Package being offered by travel agencies in Siargao. I mean it is only apt to do so due to the 3-hour limit that you can spend in the lagoon. For ₱1800/person, you’ll get to enjoy Sugba Lagoon and other notable destinations in Siargao, hassle-free. Contact Me if you need someone to arrange this tour for you.
• Of course, you can also travel on your own without availing of a travel package. If you’re a solo traveler and you can drive then simply make your way to the Del Carmen Tourism Office on your rented motorcycle.  If you’re in a group and prefer to travel at your pace then another good option is to hire a tuktuk for ₱2500/5pax to take you to the jumpoff point for Sugba Lagoon. Drop me a message so I can connect you to a reliable driver who will also double as your tour guide.

BUDGET & OTHER ESSENTIALS

Note that the prices indicated above were from our visit in 2017. Please refer to the table below for the updated costs and tours/destinations available.

There you have it lovelies. Sugba Lagoon is a real charmer. You’re probably thinking I’m too persistent but it’s the truth. I didn’t have a single regret braving the storm and the uncertainties during my trip to Siargao. Every place I visited was worth it. The island itself is paradise on earth. If you have questions, suggestions, or violent reactions, just drop them in the comments. If you love this post or helped you out in any way, let me know as well. Don’t forget to share folks!

For a more comprehensive guide to Siargao, check out SIARGAO ISLAND: DIY Budget Travel Guide, Itinerary + Useful Tips To The Surfing Paradise Of The Philippines.