ZAMBASITAW: The Ultimate Travel Guide To Zamboanga, Basilan & Tawi Tawi

The following day we arrived to a busy port in Bongao, Tawi Tawi at 10AM. The port was such an interesting sight as we watched local speed boats rush to our ship to get passengers. Young Badjao boys giddily paddled their way to our ship as well hoping for some enthused tourists to throw them some coins. We obliged and as they effortlessly dove to get the coin as it quickly submerged in the water, we could just watch in awe. We killed time watching the hustle happening at the port until it was finally time for us to disembark. Down at the ramp, we took some photos with Bod Bongao as the backdrop.

We waited for our host to arrive outside the port. Bongao have such busy streets. It was such a busy town with hundreds of tricycles driving back and forth to pick up passengers. Our ride finally arrived and gladly, it was all to my liking, a black pick up truck. We immediately loaded ourselves at the back of the truck and drove to the nearest local eatery to grab lunch. When everyone was satiated, we then drove to Rachel’s Place, our home for the next 3 nights while in Tawi Tawi. There we settled our stuff and rested while we waited for the rain to stop.

The downpour came to a halt and the sun had again shone brightly in the sky at 3 in the afternoon. Thought it was time to move around the town. We walked from the hotel to the public market. There we sampled some street foods consist of mostly fried goodies such as chicken, calamari, eggs and so much more. We also tried some local sweet delicacies but what we enjoyed most was the famous Malaysian street food which is being sold in the streets of Bongao. We continued exploring the town until it was sundown. At 6PM, we were back at the hotel and feasted on a sumptuous dinner. We were off to bed early as we were heading to some sacred place the following morning.

The following morning got us on our feet before sunrise. We were already waiting in front of the hotel for our host at 5AM. He arrived 30 minutes later with his “poging” pick up truck. We immediately loaded ourselves at the back of the truck and drove to Bud Bongao. We arrived in Bud Bongao 15 minutes later where we saw some eager locals waiting for the registration officer to be available. We decided not to join the crowd and had breakfast at a nearby eatery. We settled for a bowl of noodle soup, some bread, coffee and little bit of chitchat before heading out to start the day.

At 7AM, we started trekking to the top of Bud Bongao. It was an easy and fun trek. A bit creepy and entertaining too courtesy of Bud Bongao’s residents, the monkeys, which were all over the place. What should have been an hour trek turned to almost 2 hours with us snapping photos from time to time. The view is one of the best on the island, the monkeys were absolutely adorable and scary and most of all, it was simply amazing being able to experience the culture in Tawi Tawi’s most revered mountain. We descended Bod Bongao at 11AM and went straight to the public market to have lunch.

After having lunch, we drove to the outskirts to explore a cave and a pristine beach. We spent a good hour or two dipping at its clear water under the pouring rain. We went back to the town at 4PM and headed straight to Sameera where we have tasted one of the best and delicious coffee ever! We also enjoyed various kinds of bread which went perfectly with our cup of coffee. It was one heck of an afternoon and what I cherish most is the experience of being able to sit among strangers while I enjoy a cup of coffee and good conversation just like a real local.

On our third day in Tawi Tawi came what we have been waiting for all along. A trip to their precious island, Panampangan. We started the journey to the island at 8AM. The butt-numbing boat ride lasted about 3 hours. At 11AM, we found ourselves in awe of the raw beauty of Panampangan Island. White sandbars, far and wide, surrounded by shimmering turquoise water. It was like Onuk Island of Balabac, no, better. Way better. We spent the next 3 hours relaxing, dipping and marveling at the exceptional beauty before us. At 2AM, when the water has risen enough for us to ride our boats, we headed out to our next destination, a diving spot.

The seas became rough all of a sudden that what could have been an hour journey was doubled. We arrived at Sangay Siapo Island a little over 4PM which was a bit late to go diving considering all the prepping we still need to do. Still, it wasn’t a waste though as the water surrounding the island was great for some dipping. We spent the rest of the day having fun on the beach. And when it was time for the sun to bid goodbye, it gave us one of the most magnificent sunsets of our lives.

Early morning of our 5th day, we headed to the airport to catch our flight back to Zamboanga. We had a swift 45 minute flight. We then headed straight to the port to catch a ferry going to Basilan. An hour later, we set foot in one of the world’s most dangerous places or so we thought. We had brunch at a nearby cafe. Once we’re filled, we walked our way to find us a hotel. Much to our relief, we stumbled upon The Hotel Sophia, a few walks away from the port. There we settled our stuff and rested for a bit.

Once we felt rested, we headed out for another adventure in Lamitan. The original plan was to take a public transpo going there as it was cheaper but everyone was ripping us off that we settled for the tricycles. The ride going to Bulingan Falls took over 30 minutes. The falls was packed with locals. The cascade falling to its clear basin was not as much. What I found delight with was looking at the rock formation. It was interesting in detail. We left Bulingan Falls at 4PM, went back to the city and spent the rest of the hours sampling some street food while watching the locals go about their day. The day again ended with another magnificent sunset. One we will always remember for the rest of our lives.

We saved one of the best for last and we were just glad we did. Early morning of our last day, we headed to the port to catch a boat to Malamawi Island. Once in Malamawi, we rode a multicab to the island’s white beach. We arrived to an empty beach, just us and the sound of the calm water as it hit the fine white sands. I couldn’t believe my eyes as I stared at the vast blue waters like I’m looking at a giant infinity pool. Never have I imagined a gem as precious as Malamawi’s white beach could be found some place which the world seems to despise.

We left Malamawi Island with a heavy heart at 11AM and went to cross the waters back to Zamboanga on a ferry. We were a bit puzzled as to what to do next when we reached Zamboanga. We really want to see Merloquet Falls but we were already running out of cash and a little pressed for time. We decided to head to the plaza and see the vintas instead but we were told they only appear during sunsets which is a bummer because we will be catching our flight by then. Then an idea came from a local friend who is now based in Manila. Without further adieu, we rode a tricycle, braved the heavy traffic amidst the scorching sun and went to Hacienda De Palmera and it was just the perfect ender to this epic adventure. Us on a table planning another Holy Week Escapade while munching on the delicious knickerbocker.

Jumpstarting your Zambasitaw can be done it both Zamboanga and Tawi Tawi as Cebu Pacific and Philippine Airlines have flights to both these destinations from Manila. Here are your transfer options for the entire itinerary.

Manila To Zamboanga – Fly via Cebu Pacific or Philippine Airlines. You can also travel for 18 Hours via 2Go to reach Zamboanga. For your booking needs and other options, 12go Asia has it covered.

Zamboanga To Basilan (Vise versa) – Ride a sea ferry going to Isabela City. Trips are available starting 7AM to 5PM. Fares range from P100 – P130/way/person.

Zamboanga To Tawi Tawi – You can fly via Cebu Pacific to and from Tawi Tawi daily. Another option is to take a sea ferry to and from Bongao. Travel time is 18 hours and trips from Zamboanga is during Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 6PM. Fare is P1100/way.